The new trend alerts from menswear Fall 2019 shows are in and this season – I think – has been more groundbreaking due to the political climate that masculinity is in. The undeniable conversation of masculinity and its assertion and part in society is being questioned more than ever. Not that it doesn’t belong, but the toxicity that has been indulged and nurtured by the ideas of masculinity.
This season in menswear fashion we had our fair share of classically tailored goods from such designers like Hedi Slemane of Celine and Veronique Nichanian of Hermes. No shade whatsoever — they both debuted collections that were stunning, classic and ever so romantic in such ways that even I would love to dress. However, they dabbled in nothing further striking that designers like Ludovic de Saint Sernin who showed one shoulder camisoles, crop top sweaters and oval cutout tops baring nipples. Other designers went to the skirt trend that was seen even in Zara men’s collection last year. Charles Jeffery Loverboy of London showed men in multi-colored knee-length skirts as well as a semi-floor length flag printed skirt with a matching oversized backpack from Louis Vuitton. Guessing for overnight traveling?
More designers who allowed massive influences of femininity or maybe what the masses idea of what femininity is into their collections really shined this season.
More intriguing was the leather pant craze that was seen in almost every collection. From Celine, Loewe to Balmain and N21 — leather trousers, both skinny and bulky, oversized and tailored were scattered across the catwalk this season. Upon discussion with a fellow writer and stylist – Stephen Garcia noted that the leather trouser making a comeback must a keynote to the LGBTQIA+ communities that made leather an everlasting moment in the ’80s, ’90s and of course leading its way into a massive sub-culture of Leather wearing men and women till this day. This is all subjective of course — observational.
Reading deeper into the men’s fall 2019 runway showcases we saw a lot of prints that till this day we hope to see more men experiment with both in the streets and in styling. Neon everything and we mean everything from furry knit sets and zebra at Marni, Accessories, and outerwear at Raf Simmons and full pink ensembles that include shoes, pants, shirts sweaters and coats at Kenzo.
Wrapping all this up I come to think that designers are making statements – a kind of opening to the ideas and standards that no longer will dictate and for some designers never had dictated their collections before. Mashing feminine energy with masculine cuts was an epic moment for this season and one that I cannot wait to be seen in the streets. As many know fashion has been a tested ground – especially for those who find themselves only intrigued by the non-changing ideas of comfort. I get it, it’s easier and sometimes ideal to be in classic menswear, but the idea of a classic is being transformed for the better and with that transition comes to a massive shift in a social climate which I believe will be and have a positive impact. Thoughts?
Fashion Editor: Ernesto Prada
February 14, 2019